The VACUUM TABLE

	The VACUUM TABLE
		Make sure that the table you will be using is large enough to place your 'holding frame' flat onto. The holding frame will be only as big as the intrior of your oven. Drill a hole through the middle of the table. This hole will be the SUCKING hole for the vacuum process. A Shop-vac, or vacuum pump of some sort, will connect to this hole, causing a vacuum that will SUCK the HOT plastic down onto your molds.

		Screw a Circular Fitting onto the bottom of the table, placing it directly over the hole. Seal it with Silicone Caulk if you like. (All the parts for this kind of low-budget vacuumtable can be bought at a local hardware store.) Screw a Threaded Fitting into the circular fitting. Seal the threaded fitting with plumber's tape, if you want. This Threaded Fitting will connect to the Shop-vac's Reducer Nipple when the time comes. Reducer nipples can be found in hardware stores in the shopvac sales area.


		Lay down foam weather stripping inside the dimensions of the holding frame. Put the weather stripping directly UNDER where the frame will go. When you press the frame to the table, the weather stripping will help "vacuum-seal" the frame to the table.

		Time for connecting the VACUUMCHAMBER...a.k.a. ...the Shop-vac! I do not know if a 1.5 or 2 HorsePower shopvac will work for your needs, but I know a 3 HP Shopvac worked well for my first armor projects. Currently, I use a "6" h.p. Shopvac. (updated info. Jan. 2000)

		Connect the shop-vac hose to the reducer nipple...

		....and slip the reducer nipple onto the vacuum table via the Threaded Fitting. You will not screw the reducer nipple on , but rather slip it onto the pipe. Ducttape the nipple to the pipe to ensure it stays put. You may also caulk the connection area if you feel the need for added vacuum seal. Connect the hose to the Shop-vac and your ready to vacuumform!